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When curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. But, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their small shop earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.